Flight Laundering

There was a time when the novel concept that Jordanians overfly Israel and Palestinian territories was a novel concept. Whenever we sat in ICAO meetings in Cairo or some other capital, the word "Israel" spoken made many uncomfortable. The attendance evaded that by saying "Lima Lima Lima Lima." 

It was not a Peruvian patriotic chant or some sort of debilitating stutter. It was a reference to the Phoentic pronunciation of LLLL. The ICAO code for Tel Aviv FIR, the airspace that Israel manages.

Israeli Airspace from the ICAO map viewer
People where uncomfortable acknowledging the world Israel meant something now. I always thought it was a rather "Head-in-the sand" approach to dealing with the problem

Laundering as it where the word Israel or Tel Aviv and cleaning it into the cacophonous  "Lima Lima Lima Lima" always seemed ridiculous to me. 

That was something that we got used, public pressure to conform to the official line of no recognition and no peace was always there. On the other hand, many rumors of normalization went on for years on end.

Tel Aviv FIR falls under the Paris office in ICAO, meaning it is considered in EUR. While a stone-throw away (no pun intended) from Europe, Israel is solidly in the Middle East, however, it was never welcomed in the MID region which covers the Middle East. 

The move to the Paris office was logical to the Middle East and the Israelis. So much so that a few years later, Israeli airspace is now under a comprehensive agreement with the Euro-control.
The airplane landing in Marka Airport with a Squawk 0431
That was then, this is now. 

On Tuesday the 22nd of October, an airplane landed in Amman's Marka Airport on 19:09 GMT.

Two minutes later the aircraft departed the same airport in the opposite direction and with a different squawk code. The two minute stop could be pushing the edge of what is legal as it doesn't seem the flight has truly terminated to require a new code. 

Preparing for a proper departure in a jet aircraft usually needs no less than 5 minutes at least and usually around 15-20 minutes. Being a night flight necessitates more caution. Someone was in a rush 

To land on Runway 06 in Marka is not normal and someone was coordinating 

A squawk is a code that allows Aircraft to talk to secondary radars. The series of codes allocated to each country can usually be a tell-tale of the origin of the aircraft 

This makes it seem that the flight originated from Amman. For all intents and purposes, someone put an effort to try to make it look like the aircraft originated from Jordan. 
The Airplane departing with Squawk 0710
The aircraft is US-registered and media reports are actually pointing to Mark Esper's visit to Saudi and a possible meeting including Israeli officials
A tweet from Avi Scharf, an Israeli journalist, actually made this laundering public. The journalist seems to have a tracking passion. Many of his twitter posts point to FlightRadar24 images and some images of what seems to be a flightfeeder

A previous tweet by Avi explained that this flight laundering is common place. In the strained public perception of Israel by citizens of gulf countries, it seems to legitimize the flight and make it clean. 

Many other media outlets also referenced the same event to point to the possibility of Netanyahu being on the airplane

The aircraft also did a small stop on the way back in Marka Airport, again changing the squawk code. This time a more normal turnaround of 20 minutes ensued. 

These antics were not envisaged when the air transport system was designed. It does mean that the operators and pilots of such flights are usually put under more pressure and this can lead to undesirable results if not incidents and accidents.

The local regulator in Jordan will find itself helpless. The political pressure to maintain the relationship with Saudi Arabia and Israel at the bare minimum will override any bureaucrat desire to apply simple and well-established procedures that guarantee safety. Flight Laundering seems to be the equivalent of money laundering in politics.

 Peace, Out!


A minority in my own town

This article was earmarked for publication under a nom de plume, however, the publisher had a change of heart and I decided that I should publish it on my blog

Amman, Autumn 2015

Today was just one of those days that has to be recorded, I don't know why, but it has to be recorded.

First I took my baby daughter to get her vaccines , a "Hexa Vaccine", which I really, really didn't want to because I read somewhere that some babies die because of it! Which is the exact opposite of what you want to read about a vaccine. 

We were also planning a "Rota Virus Vaccine," which has a chance to cause her intestines to collapse like a -you couldn't make this stuff up- telescope,  However remote the chance, you still don't want to hear about it!

With that in mind I walked into the health center -partially renovated by USAID funds- this morning and processed our turn and paid our dues. A few minutes later, we get called into a room, and the pediatrician looked at our paperwork and told her assistant that there are many Jordanians visiting the center today. 

Semantics dictate that the deduced norm is: not to have many Jordanians on any given day. I laughed and asked, and yes that center was usually overwhelmed with Syrians, because "they are the ones with all the kids." In an instant there was a range of emotions running through me.

I was proud that the center in sweileh is among many that have been trying to offer Syrian refugees in Jordan a chance at decent medical attention while running away from their war-torn country. Immediately followed by a -probably unnecessary- fear from over population or changing demographics,then a second later by a need to act. 

I wanted to do something, the war in Syria has gone on long enough, surely these refugees deserve to go home, if only we could do something. Maybe the Jordanian government and people should back one of the sides, perhaps the resistance, or the regime. Anybody, to conclude the bloodshed and help tip the scales.

The resistance shouldn't be helped because we don't want the weapons to reach ISIS, or is that what the regime wants us to think. Are there true freedom fighters? or Are they all just terrorists? The regime has shed thousands of lives, damages countless areas and communities because it wants to stay in power and doesn't believe in freedom, or is that what the resistance wants us to believe. Are there not external forces trying to manipulate the resistance and damage Syria? Are these opposition forces not traitors by conspiring with outside forces? 

I don't know, but it needs to stop!

It was to be expected with the influx of refugees from Iraq, that there will pop-up some restaurants with a slightly tilted menu, or eateries that cater almost exclusively to a different tongue palette. But to have a waiter in one of the oldest restaurants in Amman (Jabri) call one of my favorite dishes by its Iraqi name Dolmah, was a bit too much, especially since he was Egyptian and the Egyptian name is very similar to the local name. Isn't it time that an inclusive democracy happens in Iraq? or maybe another Saddam should come in and settle the place down, either way, shouldn't Iraqis have a better life than trying to carve out an existence in the foreign cities of the world. 

Later in the day, I walked into the Civil Status and Passports Department(CSPD), in their new(ish) offices, to get a passport for my baby girl, walking up-to the front desk, I show the clerk my paperwork and he asks me one surprising question. "Are you Jordanian?"

Ofcourse, I am, am I not? I mean, the whole deal with this building was to provide paperwork to Jordanians and of-course some minorities who live here, but mainly Jordanians, no?

Well, it turns out that "Yes," is not a sufficient answer, I was further prodded on with " Jordanian Jordanian?" and yet again my head nodding and my feverish "Yes," didn't do it, I had to get asked a third time "Jordanian and a national number" which immediately brought more meaning to the words he was asking. 

See in Jordan, a national ID number gives you a 5-year passport, while those with ties to Palestine and claims on other identities have 2-year passports that require much more intensive paperwork and a much more time-consuming process. Others still have different claims and get different identification documents which could have burdensome procedures. This all warrants more visits to the CSPD.

Obviously, therefore, the majority of people visiting the CSPD would not be "Jordanian Jordanian" as the clerk so eloquently put it. They even have whole floors to their affairs. I felt bad for those too, and I wanted someone to act, if Syria had taken long enough and Iraq needs a solution then Palestine is ridiculous. Maybe then Amman will be inhabited by a large majority of Jordanians and foreigners will be a novelty again and Ammanis will stop their xenophobia and go back to their xenophilia for which they were once famous.


The conspiratorial mind of the Arab. Part 1

Conspiracy theory is rife in the Arab world, I have no numbers to back this up, but I think more than half the people I sit down with believe there is a secret shadow government that runs the world. In fact, I would dare say that the majority of people in the Arab world attribute many things from daily government business to 10-year-plans to the same entity.

This has reached the level were people believe that everything in politics and government is fait accompli

Patrick Cockburn and Robert Fisk are two journalists who work for "The Independent." They have been based in the Middle East for decades on end. They made a home of it and lived in it. When they write something, I may not agree with it, but I understand where it came from.

The same cannot be said about the likes of Thomas Friedman (no hyperlink included) of the New York Times with his excuses for the regimes of the west. Any layman on the ground in the Middle East, reads Friedman as fiction or as part of proving to his tea drinking mates that there is something in their country that they don't see, but he read about it from a "Formidable Jew"

I tend to sit down with these crowds and I live by the age-old adage "listen more and talk less." I hear the multitude of conspiracy theories they spew out. The more elaborate and outrageous, the more some people buy into it. When Friedman tells us that there is a possibility that Iran and Israel are heading for their first war. My Arab readers think this means Israelis are preparing to bomb Iran.

Others will read it as a cover-up to the conspiracy that is running their lives.

Just to push my point through, here is one from an old Ba'athist (all translated ideas):
  • Iran and Israel are in cahoots (I am trying to translate, bear with me) to destroy the Arab World.
  • Since Khomeini stepped down the stairs of the Air France B747 and he has been working with the CIA to destroy Iraq. That is why the US pushed Saddam to invade Iran and after destroying his military might, told him to invade Kuwait. This is when they stabbed him in the back and planned to take over his oil.
  • Next comes Syria, the strongest economy and the most self-sufficient power in the Middle East. The Israelis founded ISIS and funded it just as they did with Hamas. They then created a power vacuum which looks alluring to both Saudia and Qatar, where they can spend billions fighting it off.
  • Saudi funded some people, Qatar funded other factions and this allowed Israel to destroy the next threat to its existence.
  • These scenarios means that the Arabs allowed Syria, Iraq and all the Persian Gulf national wealth to evaporate, all in a span of a few years.
  • The Kurdish state will be funded by Israel to take parts of Syria and Iraq as their own and then ally themselves with Israel and therefore form a barrier against Turkish meddling and stop the Turkish empire resurgence 
This scenario above was so ludicrous that I had to leave behind my silence and ask
  • Was Syria ever a threat to Israel? Since 1973, have they ever fired a bullet towards Israel? (Syria was apparently waiting for the right time)
  • Aren't Iran closer to the Israeli border now? (I was sorry I asked, apparently this was the plan, to have an Israeli-Persian belt to prevent Erdogan from taking over part of the Middle East and kicking Israel out.)
  • Don't Israel rather have stability in their neighborhood and a regime that is rational rather than a couple of rouge terrorist factions? (Ofcourse not, the Ba'athist taught me, de-stability is how they plan to start taking over the Middle East)
Conspiracy theories thrive in fluidity; any evidence to the contrary is void and any piece of evidence needed to support the argument can be made up. There are people who make this stuff up for a living, like the vulgar and self-proclaimed Editor-in-Chief Osama Fawzi (no hyperlink and don't even google him, it's not worth it) and other conspiracy theorists.

The above was one example of many that Arab conspirators swear by.

More importantly, it is important to look at the cultural influence of the Islamists. They spent years as a proselytizing force that was an important feature especially in the gulf region. This was important in the early years of Jihad, when Jihadis in Afghanistan were actually encouraged by the CIA.

I read this book and realized that this was not a conspiracy theory, it was in fact the intention of the Arab Governments and the CIA to create a boogy-man called "The communists"

 I recall quite vividly a cassette that was being pushed by the religious establishment when I was growing up.

The verse I recall is: 

شيوعيون جذراً من يهود... صليبيون في لؤم الذئاب

Which translates into:

"Communists rooted in Judiasm ... Crusaders as vile as wolves"

You can't make this stuff up

It was by a "Sheikh" called "ٍSa'ad Al Ghamidi", for those with a conspiratorial mindset, I don't think they are related to the two Ghamidis who participated in 9/11 but I can't be sure. The cassette was titled "Conspiracy woven against the youth." I googled it and was not surprised to find different "covers" of the same song on Youtube.

Here is one posted in 2008

Just the fact that I am calling it a song might get me in trouble, it is actually a "chant". Since these sheikhs interpretation of Islam prohibits all kinds of musical instruments, even some that were used in the times of the prophet, they "chant" with no musical backing and rely on acoustics to make the sound passable.

Another version below shows some of the clergy catching sellers of pendants with anchors in them, you need to understand that the anchor contains a hidden cross, therefore it must be a conspiracy to get our youth to wear a cross.

A picture shows a cloth that contains hexagons, therefore it must be an attempt to get people to wear the Israeli hexagons. A T-shirt with the words "Sister for sale" is also caught as a conspiracy to get our youth to start practicing prostitution in their own families.

This wasn't a small operation, these cassettes were copied in the thousands and were available from the UAE and Kuwait to Qatar and Saudia Arabia. The clergy in the video are most probably in Saudia. They are the official government censor office which have authority to confiscate such media.

I recall vividly as a young kid that there was an image of a pig in one of our textbooks. The censorship team came into class one day and asked us for all the books so they can use their black markers which were notorious in the UAE of the late 1980s and early 1990s. They used the markers on the pigs, as if they shouldn't exist. 

My father found their act shameful,  perhaps they should take their markers to the Quran, because the animal is mentioned in it.

To be continued...


Early Memories - Lebanon - Beauty is in the eye of the rifle holder

Mount Lebanon - Jabal Lebnan - Le Mont Liban
Summer of 1991

My new friend Rabie' and myself were very close in age, his father said he had brought him along to entertain him. I was happy to finally see a kid near my age, it felt more normal to talk to him than to the adults. The restaurant had a large terrace that connected to a small playground where kids could go play. We were to go play and leave adults to their own thing, so we stepped out.

"It is my first time here" I proclaimed to Rabie' trying to get him to talk to me. "Baba brings me here often, he has to work." I wondered why he thought his father was working in this restaurant; he wondered why I talked funny.

"I don't talk funny, in Jordan almost everybody talks similar to me." I explained as best I could. "So you are not form here? That is why!" Rabie' understood and he seemed to want to ask a million question as the same time. "Baba told me that the Palestinians ruined your country too. Is that true? Is your mother alive? How long did the war last in Jordan?" He blurted out in rapid succession before he could help himself. I realized that I had just bitten more than I can chew and so I just said "Yes!" to nothing in specific.

What did he mean by my country? How can Palestinians ruin my country? Didn't he mean Israelis? What does my mother have to do with all of this? So many questions popped into my little head and I knew I couldn't process them.

In hindsight, the conversation was between a young Jordanian kid of Palestinian heritage who never even heard of any conflict between the two components of his upbringing and a young Lebanese kid whose father was poisoning his impressionable mind with war stories about how bad the Palestinians were.

After an hour of goofing and playing around, I found something interesting in the dirt. It was a pendant with a picture engraved on it. I ran back to Rabie' to show him what I found, the lady on the pendant looked like the lady at dinner table and I told him so. He said she looked like the "Virgin" but I knew that couldn't be true.

We went back indoors to give the pendant to an adult. Rabie was telling his father that I found a pendant with the "Virgin" on it and I was telling my mother to give it to the lady sitting across the table. "Why do you think I should give it to her?" She asked and I had to admit that she looked a lot like her.

"Listen to this: Radi thinks Antoinette looks like the Virgin Mary, he thought it was her pendant." My mother announced to the table. I squealed in embarrassment while hiding my head in the seat cushion. Everyone thought it was cute, Antoinette seemed proud of herself all of a sudden. I just couldn't help but wonder who is this "Virgin" everyone keeps mentioning. I knew I should ask my father later on, he probably knew her as well.

I was so embarrassed and told my mother to ask Rabie's mother to have him go back with me to the playground. "I'll ask Rabie' after dinner, don't mention his mother for now"  my mother whispered back.

The dinner table was opulent, the Levantine Mezze as varied as the people surrounding the table. My father never seemed to stop working, although he seemed to have fun while at it. The only way I knew he was working is when he pulled his business card holder out of his pocket. He seemed to be able to carry a conversation with all the other adults. My conversations with Rabie' were a lot less fruitful.

Our chaperone was introducing my father to an endless array of Messieurs, "Abu"s and "Estaz"s. I was watching my father fire off a few jokes and tales that made everyone around the table seem enchanted.

I was again told to go and play with Rabie outside, I thought the playground looked rather aged and I told him so. "Before the war, we had many playgrounds, they were big too!" Rabie' replied and I knew this wasn't coming from him, he was just repeating what adults were telling him. "Did you live in Lebanon before the war?" I asked back, being an expat in the UAE, I assumed his family would have taken him to another country to live.

"I was born in the war, but then my mother lived with us back then, this was before the Palestinians  and Israelis gave her to God." Rabie' confidently answered, like he had rehearsed that line a million times.

"Israel took my country took my father's country too." I retorted, since my mother told me not to discuss his mother.
"It was the most beautiful country in the world." I said confidently, knowing what I said to be a fact.
"Lebanon was the most beautiful country in the world!" countered Rabie', he seemed shocked that I had the audacity to challenge the conventional wisdom.
"No! It was Palestine and I know it! If you don't believe me ask Rabab!" I motioned to my sister who had told me about our old country Palestine.

Rabie' instead ran to his father inside the restaurant and asked: "Wasn't Lebanon the most beautiful country in the world, Baba, before the Palestinians came in?"
Silence loomed until I said: "Palestine was the most beautiful country in the world until the Israelis came in!" looking at my father for buttress.

The adults all kept their tongues to themselves, until my father tactfully replied. "Switzerland is the most beautiful country in the world, it always was and will be." To which the adults laughed in relief from an awkward silence that was making them hold their breaths. Rabie' didn't understand what was going on.

"If it wasn't for the Palestinians, Lebanon would have been much more beautiful that Switzerland or whatever." He insisted. To which his father immediately yelled back " A'ib!". A world roughly translated as "shame on you," but most kids understand it to mean that you should just be quite because you said something you shouldn't have.

"Pardon Monsieur Khalil, I apologize from you" Rabie''s father addressed my father, "his uncle and mother where killed in East Beirut by the Fedayeen, he just doesn't know any better." I felt bad for Rabie' he seemed too young to have lost his mother. I also learnt that Rabab -my eldest sister- probably didn't know everything. She was a fan of those very same Fedayeen -Palestinian Guerrilla fighters- that had killed Rabie''s mother.

My father smiled and nodded and took the whole thing in stride, he probably knew that this thing was bigger than any of those on the table.

Driving back from the mountain in the evening, "They were with the Katayeb (Phalanges) in the war, didn't you see the sticker on his car?" My father asked rhetorically. "That triangular tree cut into three with the brown trapezoid, that is the Phalanges' flag, it was the same one they sprayed on bodies in Sabra and Shatila. They are not so innocent themselves!" My father explained to my mother who felt bad for the kid, she resignedly uttered: "How sad!"

"How sad!" was all she could come up with as the Sabra and Shatila was a massacre -genocide even- committed by the people of Rabie''s mother upon the people of my mother. It was sad because innocents were paying the price of yet another war they didn't choose. My mother lived through the 1970's events in Jordan, that was another "How sad!" moment to her.

The grey areas in Middle Eastern politics were always confusing to the layman, more so when they divided across sectarian, religious or partisan lines. Emotions ran judgement and not common sense.

Those words, Phalanges, Sabra, Shatila, East Beirut, West Beirut, Fedayeen, even A'ib turned out to be a riddle wrapped in an enigma. They stuck to my mind as a kid and it took years for me to understand what they meant. They still shape the Middle East of today.

Pity the nation is a good book to start if you are interested in the dizzying state of affairs that is Lebanon

Pity the nation that acclaims the bully as hero,
and that deems the glittering conqueror bountiful.
-Kahlil Gibran

Peace, Out!


Early Memories - Beirut - as we landed

Summer of 1991

It was another summer vacation, this time my father promised it will be different. I was a young kid and the airplane descending on the Lebanese capital was the highlight of the short flight. The scenery from the airplane window was captivating to everyone. On the one-side there was an endless view of the Mediterranean, on the other was a cascading hill of green trees and white stone building.

I made a mental note of the Cyrus and Cedar trees that dominated the view from airplane windows. I also noted that many people were far too excited to be landing, my family included. I was almost sure that this was another Cyprus when the stairs approached the airplane.

At the airport was a rather chunky man, who looked like a 1970s mafioso. He wore his shirt with too many buttons undone, a gold necklace added to his fashion statement. The shirt looked like cheap silk, to complement the look, he stood by a Mercedes-Benz.

This was our chaperone for this trip. My father's favourite way to travel was to have someone arranged on arrival. To take off all the little nuisances that come with travel. "Mr. Qanso sends his regards, we will meet him in the next few days."

"Cyprus was flatter" was the first thing that came to my mind when I saw the terrain on the side of the street. "Cyprus had better streets, this is more like Jordan"

A few minutes of our drive to the hotel passed and I started noticing the holes in the building. "What are those holes?" I asked my father. The sturdy man offered a first of his rather simplistic answers. "Because of the war, Ammo, this was a front-line." Ammo is the favourite term of endearment in the Levant when talking to kids, it translates to Uncle and is used to address both kids by adults and vice-versa

“What’s a front-line, Baba?” I had to ask, knowing that it had to do with war and addressing my father. I didn’t appreciate the simplistic answers that I got that aimed to silence me. "The green-line, Ammo, divided the area where the Christians were from the Muslims." With a large exhale, the man continued "May God never return those days"

I knew that this was my sign to remain quite. My father nodded to get me back to my seat. Unrelenting, I added, "It is hot". It was hot and the car did not seem to have an air conditioner. My siblings were all either half-asleep or just quite for the long drive up the mountain.
"Do you know why they called it the Green Line, Monsieur Khalil?" The man added after a few minutes of silence. "I heard that trees grew along it because of the lack of people." My father replied in wonderment, as if to question some common wisdom. "Correct, Monsieur Khalil, some trees were as tall as buildings and they had sprang out of the concrete."

"Life from death, I guess" my father added, as if to spin this into a positive.

There were not many positives to be seen, the country had just come out of the civil war, an encompassing affair that dragged on for more than 25 years and that changed the essence of Lebanon, forever.


A day in a fasting Amman

Every once in a while, especially in Ramadan, I like to take my car through Amman, in Arabic we call it"

سلي صيامك

Meaning "Entertain your Fast." It is one of the modernist additions to Ramadan, the otherwise religious month, it basically is killing hours before the breakfast at sunset. While normally, I would try to stay away from fasting mobs who are driving on low-sugar, low-caffeine and low-nicotine. A deadly combination in our culture,

Still, it is an exercise in self-discipline and a way to train your self on the value and virtue of patience. This time, I was on a chore to visit a unique venture of the Jordan River Foundation called "Al Karma Kitchen," I couldn't find a page for them online, however, here is a youtube video.

After calling the number for directions and having the polite and courteous lady lead me to the general neighborhood where the were, she ended with "Now it gets tricky, it is better if you ask around"

I was only a hundred meters or so away and I asked two men sitting on the corner of the street, they managed to point the building out. I wondered how many such men are "entertaining their fast" in these old hills of Amman

In a very meager building in the Middle of the old Amman Hilly area of "Jabal Al Natheef" you will find a slightly-better up-kept building, with a security guard in the front. Considering that the workers are all female, it looked like someone has actually concentrated some effort to create a friendly working atmosphere.

In order to disarm the guard that didn't like me taking pictures, I went straight to him and asked where the entrance is. He pointed to the metal door and said "Knock there, they will open it."

Clumsily, I attempted to open the door assuming it was a place of work. I was mistaken, this was a women's kitchen and men where locked out.

I heard a lady behind the door saying "How I am going to open for him," I heard the same voice from the phone call yell, "This place is a mess!"

Slightly opening the metal door, the modestly covered lady kept me clear of entering the assuredly messy kitchen, and passed me my order. Paid for and received there was a few pleasantries exchanged and the door was locked. I could tell there was a very busy hive in the background and not much time can be spared this season to chit-chat.

My box of Eid Mamoul in hand, I went back to the car, with much time to spare before Iftar, so I decided to get lost in the old hills of Amman, something I hadn't done in a few years. See, the old hills of Amman are reminiscent of an older, simpler time. The kids still run around outdoors, and there are still shops that are built underneath houses. You can still find communal stairs and you can always spot where someone has botched an expansion here or there.

Solar Panel on rooftops in Old Amman, next to steep stairs
The houses grow with time, both with inhabitants and onto alleys and modernity stepped it, but the pastels of the earth refused to be quite.

You can tell that some of the old building's "architects" had a balcony here, but then six children later, the balcony was added to the house on this level. On the lower level, there still stands a balcony, although the view it overlooks is some bricks and mortar that lay in ruinous abandonment.

Solar Panel were added here or there in order to soften the blow of the monthly burden that is the utility bill, while others built a small coop to grow a few hens and get fresh eggs in the morrow.

Amman City Hall
In the distance lays the monstrosity that is the city hall, spacious and clean cut, contrasting to the clutter that is Amman.

Beautiful in isolation, an oddity in inclusion to the hills from which it derives its name and purpose.

I pity the missed opportunity to create something truly Ammanite, in flavor, in unison. The architects had created something in stone, which truly aspires to be newly Ammani, however, its clean lines and perfect curves are not anything near the evolution of the surrounding.

Then back to the layperson streets, it seemed everyone was anticipating Eid, maybe not with overly priced and perfectly manufactured  Mamoul. Rather, I suspect there will be a flurry of baking going on in the next two days.

Simple decorations unified neighborhoods, and created a clear opportunity to the tourist-resident of Amman. While I reside in Amman, the few kilometers that separate us, can make me feel like a tourist in my own town.

More importantly, the genuine residents of Amman, will always have their close-knit neighborhoods where they truly reside, as a collective , not as a collection of individuals.

I believe there are lessons to be learnt on how to uphold the values of communities and how to manage non-linear growth. The ingenious nature of the old hills' inhabitants has many lessons for those who wish to learn and build (or unfortunately rebuild) Amman of tommorow
Amman Decorations


Guest Post - Sustenance of this aviation growth in the Middle East

This post was written for Stick and Rudder Blog

There is a a certain "je ne sais quoi" about Middle Eastern Aviation, Who is the largest operator of the behemoth Double-Decker that is the A380? Emirates. How about the B777? also Emirates. Then what about the B787-9? Etihad will be that guy in a few years. The A350? That honor goes to none other than Qatar Airways. So what does that mean to the region?

That is an audacious ambition, which is new to everybody across the aviation value chain, growth in aviation is usually much more gradual and organic, there is no model to copy from on how to double, triple or quadruple an airline in 10 years, nor is there such a guide for coping with such growth.


Abu Dhabi home to Etihad with a design capacity of 40 Million Pax (passengers), Dubai home to Emirates is already at 75 million capacity and Doha home to Qatar is planning to accommodate 50 million Pax, and Dubai are already building and operating DWC airport with initially 5 million pax and a long term target of 80-120 million Pax per year. All those airports are all within 200 Nautical Miles of each other.
This is similar to having LAX (Los Angeles), ORD (Chicago O'Hare) and JFK (New York) all fitted in the area between New York and Washington!

All three big hubs in Abu Dhabi, Dubai and Doha, are fairly busy. Dubai being an extreme example of operating near capacity on its two runways. However, keep that in mind, all three airports have only two runways each. Think about that for a second, out of the top 5 airports in the world, only Heathrow and Dubai have two runways each.

Hartsfield-Jackson has 5, Haneda has 4, Beijing has 3. Dubai manged to outgrow Heathrow because of the amount of A380s it has coming in and out and the longer operating hours. Even in the top 10, Paris has 4, the Americans (Dallas and Chicago) have 8 and 9 while Los Angeles has 4, but that is just a different model of airports, you will need to go to the bottom of the top 10 to find airports like Hong Kong or Bangkok where two runways can be used efficiently to move that many airplanes.

The airports are all fairly recent, Doha's new airport having just opened up last year, and Dubai latest concourse is being built, Abu Dhabi's new terminal is still delayed but should open up in 2017-2018 and DWC is still a big question mark, but we are already hearing the airlines complaining that these will be capacity constrained and that satellites will be needed to meet that demand.


The three airports will always need top class equipment, Air Traffic COntrollers (ATCOs) and infrastructure that is cutting edge to meet all that forecast demand. ATCOs are already an issue, some parts of the operation is being outsourced to folks like NATS, and their salaries are making it harder to retain them in adjacent countries, which is causing a rise in salaries; this is eventually causing a rise in the charges that these and other airlines pay.
The immediate surrounding region is presently facing pressure to cope with the number and size of aircraft that is moving in and out, Iran and Saudi are being pushed to redesign and work with the airlines to move away from the old designs that were implemented to meet traffic moving between Asia and Europe.


The nominal infrastructure comprised of Airports, Runways, Navaids, etc... is there because it can be bought; the more important aspects are the process. Weather forecasts in the region are notoriously inaccurate, the disruption management processes are big playbooks, however, when push comes to shove, havoc rules. Processes are the biggest enablers in aviation, and each stakeholders in the value chain has hordes of manuals and checklists that will satisfy any audit or check, but adds no value when you really need it.

This region is obsessed with bigger, better, larger, longer, that it forgets that sometimes just sustaining the status quo is actually a pretty tedious task, doing it with a decent ROI is actually a great feat, that is not what we see in this part of the world. Growth is being done for the sake of growth and for the sake of diversifying investments.

Meanwhile, it is going to be a fun ten years if we remain in the aviation sector in the region.